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Bonus 20% and a Reserve Chute by Iron Pol

I woke up, this morning, ready to put my Ironman game plan to the test. With my swim workout scheduled to begin at six o'clock, I was up at 3 a.m. to have breakfast consisting of a bagel and sports drink. Then, I went back to bed to get a bit more sleep before my alarm went off at 5:15.

I loaded up my gear and headed to the pool for the first big test of the day. I had a 5000 yards straight swim on tap, a long awaited test of just how much my swimming has improved. Things went fairly well, though I felt sluggish in the water. I did complete all 5000 yards, despite my desire to call it a day after about 2500. I talked my way through the rest in 500 yard increments. After getting to 3000, "it's just two more 500 yard sets to get to 4000." After hitting 4000, it was "only 225 to complete a full Ironman swim," at which point "I may as well finish that 500." And then, "it's just one last set to complete the full workout."

It worked. I checked my watch when I touched the wall after 4225. One hour, 32 minutes, and that was with an extra yard. I'll take it, considering my "good day" estimate is an hour, 35 minutes. The full 5000 yards took about an hour, 51 minutes.

After a quick shower to wash off the chlorine, I threw on my cycling clothes for part two of the test. I met some tri club kids for a quick 15-mile loop, and then headed off for the rest of my 7 1/2 hour ride. I had downloaded a map someone local had entered onto MapMyRide, figuring his 103 miles with the 15 I did with the kids would make a reasonable workout. I would come to regret that decision. A lot. Numerous times. All the way to the bitter end.

The ride started out well enough. I had 16 gels taped to the top tube of The Pol-R Express, two bottles of sports drink, and one bottle of water. I planned on refueling along the way as needed. Given Coach Mike's suggestion that I significantly increase my fluid intake, I figured I'd need to stop several times.

It didn't take long to find out just out badly screwed up the maps Google provided for this ride are. Starting fairly early in the ride, and repeatedly throughout the ride, I found myself wondering from just what decade the maps had come. Some roads detailed on the map didn't exist at all. Others seemed to have different names. And sometimes, the maps were right. That was when I would find there were no street signs identifying the road. Luckily, I was always able to find roads that would get me back to where I needed to be, or find a road with which I was familiar.

That does not, however, mean that I didn't pay a price for the poor data.

I don't know exactly how many extra miles I put on due to the confusion, but do know it was considerable. I'm also unsure if there were refueling locations I missed, but through the entire ride, I only came across one gas station, and that was one I got to on my own. I had completely screwed up, as evidenced by the fact that I found a road I DID know. I also knew it was at least 15 miles away from where I wanted to be. I took some roads I knew, and made sure I hit the gas station.

After refueling, I headed out, only to run into one issue after another. I kept on spinning, and eventually got to a point I have biked, before. At that point, I was torn. Head off on my own and find my own route (which would take me off the route I gave my wife), or stay with the downloaded route. I opted to take the planned route.

Hey, I never said I was a genius.

After a few more missing signs and non-existent roads, I went with general directions. You know, "This road takes me in the general direction I'd like to go. I'll follow it, even though I have no idea where I am." That got me to a road I wanted, though I had to take a wild guess at which way to head. Hey, 50/50 chance to get it right.

Did I mention that I was a nuclear operator in the Navy? And nukes are subject to the 50/50/90 rule? That says that given a 50/50 choice, nukes get it wrong 90% of the time. Well, this wasn't a 10 percenter. I went through a little town and said, "Hmmm, which side of the street is that cheese factory on if I'm heading AWAY from home?" And kept on going. Another one in the 90% category. Soon enough, I saw a sign advertising a business in a city I didn't really want to visit for the second time, today.

That made the decision of which way to go much easier. Too bad I'd covered about five miles to get the information. Turn around, and head back. And realize I've run out of fuel for the second time of the day.

At that point, I made the decision to call my wife and find out a few things. No answer. Cell phone, same result. Alright, go to dad. Answering machine. Well, mom's in Florida, but the she's bailed me out, before. A quick call and I learned I was somewhere between 15 and 20 miles from my car.

Nice, since the cycling computer already showed 7:44 and 130 miles. With my hands shaking from the impending total bonk, I called my wife, again, and finally got through. "Hey, I need you to come get me." With her asking the questions, I managed to explain where I was and how she could get there. Then, I told her I'd keep biking toward her and try to get to a gas station I knew should be about five miles down the road.

I made the gas station with 136.9 miles total for the trip. I barely managed to get some milk and pretzels before my wife showed up. Not bad considering I went five miles and she went something like thirty.

Needless to say, I had to scrap my 30-minute run off. Which angered me more than having to call for a bail out. I really wanted that run as a confidence booster. Still, after swimming about 20% more than the IM swim, and biking an extra 20% , I had to think safety.

There is, however, a lot of good news. Despite all the difficulties and including the various stops, I completed the trip in 8 hours 5 minutes, for an average pace just under 17 miles per hour. I passed 112 miles somewhere between 6:15 and 6:30, and nearly all the stops were before that. My nutrition was going well, and one of the reasons I kept running out of fuel is that I was staying well ahead of my normal bottle every two hours pace. And bonking after a two hour swim and eight hour, nearly unsupported bike is not unheard of.

So, despite the brutal finish, it was a good day. I learned a lot, and have some ideas about what is doable in Louisville. And I know that after the swim and first 112 miles on the bike, I could have got off and started the marathon. Given the far superior support of the IM course, today's fiasco doesn't shake my confidence. It does, however, strengthen my resolve. Nothing, and I mean NOTHING is going to stop me from getting off my bike and starting to run in Louisville.

And we'll have to wait 22 days to know exactly how that turns out.

Click HERE for more Iron Pol as he gets ready for his big Ironman Day in Kentucky

My first Triple Bypass by Everyman Tri

It all happened in slow motion so it seemed completely unreal. Unfortunately the embarrassment that soon followed was all too real.

I was climbing as well as a 220 pound guy can climb up a steep mountain pass about 60-miles into Colorado’s infamous Triple Bypass yearly bike ride.

I still had another 60-miles to go to complete the ascent and descent of three very long and steep mountain passes to get to the finish line in Avon, Colorado. I reached into my back pocket to get a gel when I lost concentration and dropped with a thud from the road like an over ripe apple onto the loose sand they were using to pad the new tarmac.

One second I was climbing and the next I was lying on the side of the road like beached whale still clipped into my pedals. About every two seconds a rider would yell out, “Are you OK?,” as I struggled to free my bound feet.

I was totally fine except for the fact that I couldn’t get free from my shackle-like clips. I had just taken the world’s slowest fall into the world’s softest sand. It was like plopping into fresh powder, except warmer and much more embarrassing.

After struggling for about 5 minutes like an unturned turtle I figured out it was easier just to slip out of my shoes and be done with it.

Standing only in my socks by the side of the road I was happy to have restored what little dignity I still had left as I got back on my road bike for the rest of this crazy adventure.

When I first moved to Colorado I had of course heard about the Triple Bypass. It was a legendary ride for a few crazy types who were willing to try to ride just over 120 miles with three mountain passes and over 10,000 feet of elevation gain. Just to put it into perspective that’s about the average day in the Alps for the boys on the Tour de France.

And just to put it into even more perspective please note that I don’t and indeed have never shaved my legs. That’s about the level of rider I am when compared to the serious cyclist.

I knew I was in for a long hard day when I started the ride at 6:30 a.m. with a nice steep 2-hour warm up climb to the top of the first pass. There was no dinner, no foreplay, no pleasant conversation…just a sharp right turn after I mounted my bike and right into the granny gear. In fact, I have never before in my life spent so much time in such a teeny tiny gear.

As much as I love my BMC Time Machine, this was no time to for bravery so I wisely opted to ride my Giant road bike with a triple gear for the Triple Bypass. I did see one guy (from Manchester, England as it turned out) on a triathlon Scott time trial bike, but he was not nearly as amused as I was by his valiant struggle up the mountains.

I reached the top of the first Pass at 8:30 a.m. feeling pretty proud and smug. I had now covered about the first 12 miles of the ride in just under two hours. When I did the math my heart sank, I was averaging just about 6-miles-hour. Let’s keep this perspective train rolling. The boys on the tour climbed two very similar mountains in the Alps today and the leaders averaged about 39-kilometers an hour…which is about 1 million more miles an hour than I could ever dream about.

Well there was nothing I could do about it but fill up my empty water bottles and begin the long descent to Idaho Springs. That part was easy. Now I’m sure that no one would ever mistake me for a contender for the “King of the Mountains” polka dot jersey. I’m not small, I’m not thin, I’m certainly not Columbian and I’m certainly not dancing on my bike as I struggle up even the smallest grade.

I can, however descend like the wind. All that weight and bulk that are such a huge anchor on the climb magically turn into a powerful booster rocket on the descent. Usually very few cyclists can pass me on a downhill unless I sit up and let them. So naturally I really love this part of the mountain rides. Unfortunately, in the mountains, what goes down has to go up. All too soon I was climbing again and this time up I-70 toward Loveland Pass.

This is by far the worst stretch of the Triple Bypass as all two thousand riders must negotiate about a 5-mile stretch of the highway just before the Loveland Ski area. And this part of the ride is not only dangerous, as cars whizz by at over seventy miles an hour, but also smelly and dirty, as huge semitrailer trucks and overloaded RV’s struggle up toward the Eisenhower Tunnel spewing huge clouds of spent diesel fuel.

It came as a great relief when I saw the exit toward Loveland Pass because I knew the highway would soon be behind me and the lunch stop lay just minutes ahead.

Lunch was fast PB and J sandwich followed by a few slices of watermelon. I really wish the organizers of such epic rides took the lead from Ironman and provided some Coke or Pepsi at these rest stops. For me nothing tops the tank up on a huge effort quite like a bit of cold sugar water with massive amounts of caffeine.

I stopped drinking soda a few years ago because it really is a huge and needless sugar bomb when combined with a typical lunch or dinner, but during an Ironman or Epic ride a huge sugar bomb fortified with caffeine is just what my body craves.

Instead I filled up my water bottle with water and plopped in a Nuun tablet. When I was first sponsored by Nuun I wasn’t really sure of how my body would react to the new stuff, but over the last several months I have really come to appreciate the ease and convenience of the little tablets. Unlike the mystery aide drink they had on the ride, the Nuun is always the right consistency and taste. When they mix up the power drinks at the rest stop they always seem to use different amounts of powder and this means that sometimes it taste just right but most times it is either too strong or too week.

I actually used up an entire bottle of Nuun tablets on the ride, and I was so happy to have such a convenient and personal supply of my very own perfect hydration mix.

After recovering from my fall, I met up with some of the other brave raceAthletes at the top of Loveland pass. It was so nice to see a few friendly faces among the sea of strangers. That’s really one of the greatest parts of team raceAthlete…the ability to show up at a race or a ride and know that you have somebody to share your pain and/or joy.

I was now just over halfway through the ride. In fact I had finished the hardest part of the ride. What I didn’t know was that the Triple Bypass would throw me a bit of curve.

Why do they call it the Triple Bypass?

That’s what I kept wondering as I flew down the backside of Loveland Pass.

There really is no feeling like descending fast on a bike after a huge climb. You really feel like you’ve just sprouted wings. After hours of slogging it up hill at some ridiculously tedious and painfully slow pace (in fact, I do believe a very energetic inch worm passed me as I plodded up the pass), the descent feels like you are an immediate contender to win the Tour de France.

I was flying down the hill, but a small voice in the back of my mind kept screaming to slow down. It was almost 10 years ago that I had done this very same descent for the first time on my mountain bike retrofitted with street tires. It was my first taste of mountain riding. I just climbed the hardest pass of my life so I was jubilant to be flying down this very same road tucked into a very precarious and very silly aero position on a bike designed for mountain trials, and not fast descents.

It was just before a very dangerous and steep curve that I heard a sound that at first meant nothing to me, but today scares the hell out of me. It was loud pop or ping…almost a muffled shot gun blast. I was descending at about 45-miles-an hour heading toward a curve with a thousand foot drop just past the stubby guard rail.

Immediately my bike started to buck and bob like a crazed bull with a hornet in its ear. The back end of the bike wobbled so furiously that my vision blurred. I jumped on the brakes and the rear one pulsated as it caught and released in a frantic attempt to slow the bike down.

The only thing that saved my life that day (for I was heading straight for the guardrail and there was no doubt in my mind that I would catapult over it and into the valley thousands of feet below) was the fact that the spoke that popped was on my back wheel.

If you have ever had a spoke break you’ll know that in an instant the wheel goes out of true. This is usually a minor problem, but when you are flying down a mountain on a mountain bike with well over two hundred pounds on it the wheel can easily pancake. This recently happened to a friend of mine who did not walk away from the fall.

I was so very lucky that it was the rear wheel and that I was able to use the front break to stop just inches from the guardrail of doom. As I now flew down this very same road, this frightening scenario kept replaying in my head over and over again. By the third showing I was on my brakes. I suspect that it is the ability to ignore that little screaming voice in the back of the head that either crushes or creates some of the greatest cyclist in the world.

This Tour wannabe was all over the brakes. I had nothing to prove and two significant mountain passes still looming in my future.

They officially call it Swan Mountain Pass on the road sign but for some reason the organizers of the Triple Bypass have completely ignored it in their marketing. It comes between Loveland Pass and Vail Pass, but you’ll hear no mention of it in the official tile of the ride as in Quadruple Bypass.

Why not?

I suspect that it would be the straw that would break the camels back for many riders when signing up for the ride. “Sure honey, I think I can do three mountain passes and 120-miles in the saddle,” the conversation might go. But four mountain passes, well that’s just one too many.

And that’s exactly how I was feeling climbing up Swan Mountain Pass. I was ready for Vail Pass, but instead I had to climb this bonus pass. Which would normally not be a big deal, but when you are blown, cracked, exploded like a walnut dropped on a busy semi truck clogged interstate, even a small hill is a problem. A small Mountain Pass might as well be the summit of Everest.

There comes a point for us hairy legged everyman (and I suspected even shaved legged everywoman) in any long ride when the legs explode. The symptoms are simple and straightforward. One of the large muscle groups in the legs cramps up to the point of immobility. Oh yes...and it hurts like hell.

The muscles just cramped up and stubbornly refuse to move. They let you know they mean business by sending waves of painful stabbing agony into your brain when you try to so much as unlock or twitch the seized up muscle group.

This happened to the muscles on the inside of my thighs on the way up Loveland Pass. Funny thing that; I didn’t even know that I had muscles on the inside of my thighs.

Now these same muscles were just screaming at me again saying if I even so much as try to put down any serious power they would go on strike and stand at rigid attention until I got into the nearest Sag Wagon.
So it was only with kind and very gentle persuasion that I was able to coax them up and over Swan Mountain Pass. By the time I got to the second to last rest stop at the bottom of the pass I was ready to call it a day. But in for a dime, in for a dollar, as I like to say. So I got back on the bike and headed out.

Needless to say by this point (some 85-miles and 8 hours into the ride) my ass was on fire and I was running on pure stubborn determination. I had my head down and I was now on this death ride to the very end. You know when you get into that mental zone when nothing matters but the finish. In fact I was so into the zone that a car crash on the road next to me didn’t even garner my attention. I heard the skid followed by the sound of crunching plastic and metal and looked up as two cars collided in a nasty fender bender.

I just put my head down and kept pedaling. There were tons of police all around and besides the only thing I could have done at that moment was to stop, and tumble from the bike like a newly cut tree, and hope that someone would stand me back up, while I tried not to add to the carnage.

With the accident behind me I now had about a 15 mile climb to the top of the last pass. Vail Pass loomed in my future Moby Dick…huge, frightening and unconcerned.

I began the assent in earnest at Copper Mountain. I had climbed this pass from the Copper side many times. It usually takes about a half hour and makes for a very pleasant ride next to a babbling stream. Happy-go-lucky vacationers stroll up and down the pass taking in the massive mountain vistas while breathing in the hundreds of intoxicating wild flower fragrances.

I didn’t see any of this. All I saw was the cement path about three feet in front of me. I begged, pleaded, and extorted my thigh muscles to just keep clicking over. I was now in the home stretch of the death ride and all I had to do was make it to the aid station at the top of the pass. Mercifully the organizers had put the last aid station about twenty miles from Avon. The rest of the ride was all downhill from that aid station at the top of Vail Pass.

All I had to do was make it to the top of the pass and I could coast to the finish. I knew from prior experience that the last quarter mile of the path kicks up viciously and no matter how much I wished it were not so, the path had indeed not changed. About an eighth of a mile from the summit the pass took an especially nasty left turn skyward and my legs called it quits.

That was it they said and cramped up solid like titanium. I just stood there mortified straddling my bike and watched the other riders crest the hill and stop at the aid station. I didn’t know what to do. There was no way I could get back on my bike, clip in, and continue up the hill. So I did the only thing left to me. I dismounted and goose stepped up the hill like a Nazi marching on parade before WWII dragging my bike behind me. I was embarrassed, but I was not able to bend my knees…but I was also not defeated.

When the road evened out a bit I was able to get back on the bike and climb the last few hundred feet the aid station which was just one parking lot level from the tippy top of Vail Pass.

I took on some more water and waited for the rest of the raceAthlete gang to join me. The had waited a bit longer at the previous rest stop to group up while I had gone ahead knowing they would catch me.

When they did we rode as a group to the very top of Vail Pass. This is where I almost puked. The tiny amount of effort to just ride that last little bit was a climb to far. My body was spent and I knew it. I felt like I had just completed and Ironman and now I was feeling weak, sick and all I wanted to do was lay down under a shady tree.

And this is exactly what I did when I finally coasted to the finish in Avon. Actually, I first loaded up my plate with chicken and a burger at the after ride feed. Unfortunately while my mind thought I was hungry my body refused to eat. I took a bite of the burger and a bite of chicken and just chewed at it. All I wanted to do was lay down and rest and stop moving and not puke.

It was the same look I saw on many a face next to me. Sure, there were plenty of people sitting on the grass in the setting sun munching on burgers and chatting about the day’s adventures. But there were just as many laying in the shade with that “I will not puke” look that comes from over exertion and too much sun.

Post Script: My mom picked me up and drove me back to my car some 120 miles away. To get to her car on the bike path I had to climb what I could best describe as a half story mound, miniature hill, or an overly ambitious bump in the path.

I walked up it.

After climbing for just under 10 hours with a total day’s adventure time of 12 hours, I could not mentally or physically stomach another hill.

I'm in Love by Simply Stu

When I first got my BMC with the cool Zipp wheels and the incredible PowerTap, I was in love. It was new. It was cool. It was amazing. That was than, this is now.

1400 miles later, 3 flats, 2 batteries, 10 washes (1 by a friend, a team member), at least 35 tubes of NUUN, 2 new team kits, and countless hours on the saddle - I'm still in love, but not in the same way. Let me explain.

Have you ever seen a guy walk to his garage, open it up to show his vintage Corvette? Have you seen the passion? You may not see the sweat, the tears, the love, but you do see a car. It has been well used, it becomes a part of you.

That is exactly how I feel about my bike. It is a part of me now. Picture the joy on the guys face showing you his Corvette. Now think of me next to my bike. The tears, the sweat, the love is the same. The only difference is that mine only moves forward with the daily work and daily deposits I have put into Ironman training!

I look forword to Ironman Wisconsin with you and all my team members and buddies!

Decipering the Beast by Wrenching Winz

Our own Wrenching Winz helps you identify all of the bits and parts of your own steed so that next time you go to the local bike mechanic you won't need to say my rolly pollie thingy is rubbing against the black dohicky by the rear wheel...not that there is anything wrong with saying this.

1: Seat. This is where you sit, a tri seat should be narrow as to allow your butt cheeks to drape over the sides, and have a long wide nose, not only to aid in the aero position, but to push into the taint area and provide numbness.

2: Top Tube. Probably one of the more important measurements in frame sizing. This primarly helps you determine your reach. Also good for attaching Bento Boxes, gels, and race numbers.

3: Down Tube: Usually the most aero tube on the bike. Also where the brand is identified. Rally good place for internal cable routing and water bottles.

4: Seat Tube: This forms up the last of the front triangle. The angle of this tube is what makes a tri bike a tri bike. Nice steep angle. Also a location of the model name and another good place to hang a race number or pump.

5: Seat Post. Sometimes aero, sometimes not. Connects the seat to the bike, Don't extend this too far or it'll snap. Really good adjustment to max out poeer and efficiency on your pedal stroke.

6: Stem: Another part that determines reach. Many different rises (heights) and lengths. Make sure you get one that matches the diameter of your bar and fork, lest ye need to use a shim. Mount your computer here.

7: Brifters: Bar end shifters. Pretty self explanatory. Right controls the rear, left the front.

8: Crankset: The powerhouse of the bike. Here you have your Chainrings and crank arms. If your manly like me, you have a 175mm Crank. Stiffness depends on preference, the more stiff, the better power transfer and faster the ride.

9: Brake Levers: Aero brake levers at the end of your base bar. Not usually as strong as traditional levers depending on what caliper is used.

10: Base Bar: Can be either bull horn, or a traditional drop bar. Do your climbing here, attached your aero bars here and a computer.

11: Aerobars: Helps one get low and aero. Makes it easier to see cleavege on the ladies and exposes the backside more due to the lower position. S Bends or L Bends, your choice.

12: Cassette: This is where the majority of your shifting happens. Smaller cog = harder gear. Pros use a crazy 11-21, wheres us mere mortals use a 12-23, 11-23, 12-27.

13: Rear derailleur: This is a fancy way of making the chain move up and down the cassette while maintaining shifting. Garunteed to bend if crashed, expensive to replace. Pain in the ass to overhaul.

14: Brake Calipers: These make the bike stop. Assuming their adjusted properly, if not then you crash into the ditch, tree, other cyclist. Usually a dual pivot style.

15: Fork: Connects the bars to the front wheel. Usually carbon, and straight. A straighter fork handles better but rides stiffer. A fork with more curve rides smoother but handles less. Do NOT shave off the Lawyer Tabs, even though their a pain in the ass and don't work anyways.

16: Seat Stay: Provides stiffness from the seat to the rear wheel. Your rear brake gets mounted here.

17: Chainstay: Helps with handeling and stiffness. Shorter and stiffer = more power and fast ride. Make sure you have some covering on the right stay for protection. Chains hurt.

18: Wheels: Rubber, rims, hub, spokes. 700c ir 650c.

19: Front Derailleur: Move the chain through the chain rings. Easy to clean, pain to adjust, too expensive for what it is.

Well thats pretty much it for the basics of a bicycle. Its really simple once you look at it. Till then happy riding.

Click HERE for more great bike info

Tech Talk - Bike Lingo by Winz

Being all wise and knowelegeable and humble in the ways of bikes, its time to educate you young grasshoppers in the ways of bikespeak.

aero-bars
n. handlebar extension which rests the hands close together over the front hub, which is a very aero tuck.
air
n. space between the tires and the ground. (Both tires must be off the ground or it isn't "air".) Said to be caught or gotten. See sky.
anchor
n. your child, or children (anchors) that keep(s) you from riding. "Wait till you anchors grow up, you'll have road rash for breakfast and prunes for dinner!" To be used as an endearing, not demeaning, phrase.
ano
adj. frequently-misspelled abbreviation for "anodized".
ANSI
n. a withdrawn and totally wimpy bicycle helmet standard set by the American National Standards Institute. ANSI-1984 is less strict than any current standard.
apex
1) n. the apex is the middle or sharpest point of a curve2) v. to plan your line around a bend to touch the inside of the lane at the apex, starting and leaving the turn at the outside of the lane, to flatten out the required curve and increase allowable speeds.
auger
v. to involuntarily take samples of the local geology, usually with one's face, during a crash.
baby heads
n. small boulders about the size of, yep, a baby's head.
bacon
n. scabs on a rider's knees, elbows, or other body parts.
bagger
n. a person that habitually bags out. Also known as a loser.
bagging a peak
v. making it to the summit of a mountain.
bagging out
v. canceling a ride for something other than a death in the family.
bail
1) or bail out. v. to jump off in order to avoid an imminent crash. 2) v. to give up on a ride because of bad weather coming in. (from climbing)
bead
n. the part of your tire that fits onto the rim, either wire (heavy and cheap) or Kevlar (light and expensive), or what you find in Missy Giovie's hair.
beartrap
1) v. to slip off one pedal, causing the other pedal to slam one in the shin, when one gets kracked with a pedal.2) n. the toothlike scars resulting from being beartrapped.
beat
1) v. to ride with reckless disregard to one's equipment, well-being, and/or the ecology of the trail.2) adj. a term used to describe something that is not good. e.g. "It's pretty beat that the yellow trail is closed."
beater
n. a bike of such little value as to be able to beat on, or a bike that reaction after prolonged beating.
betty
1) n. any female rider.2) n. the girlfriend of an addictive rider.
biff
1) n. a crash. Synonyms: wipeout.1) v. "I biffed and then wiped away the blood."
bonk
n., v. cycling's classic term for blowing up, hitting the wall, or otherwise expiring in midride. Can be caused by -- and is frequently blamed on -- insufficient water or calorie intake, but in truth is usually a result of insufficient training. "Had I eaten more linguini last night, I'm certain I wouldn't have bonked."
century
n. a 100 mile bike ride, or a metric century which is 100 km. Takes about four and a half or three hours, respectively, on a road bike, if you're in reasonable shape. (The ability to do a metric century in 2.5 to 3 hours is why people get road bikes.)
chainring tattoo
n. the dotted-line scar you get from gouging your shin on the chainring. See rookie mark.
chainsuck
n. condition when the bike chain gets jammed between the frame and the chain rings, or when the chainring is so worn that it holds onto the chain and lifts it up to meet the incoming part of the chain.
cockrotter
n. one who allows his bike to fall in disrepair, and whose bike invariably fails him at some point in every ride. These people don't know why their bike always breaks, and often would rather buy new parts than keep their bike in good condition.
crotch-testing
n. sudden impact between a male rider's private parts and something very hard and pointy, such as a handlebar stem or seat.
DFL
n. abbreviation for, uh, Dead... Last.
first blood
n. credit to the first rider in a group who crashes and starts bleeding as a result.
fishtail
v. when the rear end locks and slides about behind you. Occurs during strong braking on loose terrain.
fit kit
n. a great set of equipment and instructions to measure the components of a correct bicycle fit. Generally, pretty accurate, and are especially good for positioning cleats.
fred
1) n. a person who spends a lot of money on his bike and clothing, but still can't ride. "What a fred -- too much Lycra and titanium and not enough skill." Synonym for poser. Occasionally called a "barney". 2) n. a person who has a mishmash of old gear, does't care at all about technology or fashion, didn't race or follow racing, etc. Often identified by chainring marks on white calf socks. Used by "serious" roadies to disparage utility cyclists and touring riders, especially after these totally unfashionable "freds" drop the "serious" roadies on hills because the "serious" guys were really posers. This term is from road touring and, according to popular myth, "Fred" was a well-known grumpy old touring rider, who really was named Fred.
granny gear
n. the lowest gear available on a bike, or a third and smallest front cog, which is only found on bikes for the feeble. Roadies don't have, need, or want them.
gutter bunny
n. a bicycling commuter.
honk
1) v. to vomit due to cycling exertion. 2) v. to grab hard on the bar ends while climbing to increase torque and traction on the rear wheel.
hook
v. to lock handlebars or wheels, and go down in a bloody pile of metal and muscle.
horizontal track stand
v. What happens when you are stopped and can't unclip out of your pedals.
LBS
n. abbreviation for "Local Bike Shop".
male blindness
n. when a male rider watches a beautiful female ride over rough terrain and stares intensely at all the jiggling parts, making him too dizzy to see straight when it's his turn to ride the same terrain.
mandibular disharmony
adv. how one's jaw feels when it and the handle bars attempt to occupy the same space and time.
[banshee screech, in stereo]
"Pray, whats wrong?"
"I've got mandibular disharmony."
Missy Giove
The wildest, fastest chick on Planet Dirt. If she doesn't crash and injure herself, she's guaranteed to win. Tattoos and hair and piercings. She races for Cannondale. There are probably only ten men on earth faster than her, and she's knocking them off, one-by-one. Bonus points: came out in 1995.
nosepickium
n. the crusties you pick from your nose after a ride in a dusty environ.
pavement polish
n. the small paralell grooves you find an your bike and its expensive components after you wipe out and smear all aver the blacktop. Pavement polish is the bike equivalent of road rash.
purple ano
adj. anodized aluminum in purple. Some riders need to obtain as much of this as possible. It comes in other colors, but they are of no consequence here.
R&D
n. Ripoff & Duplication, or Research & Development.
rag dolly
v. to wreck in such a way that one's person is tossed like a flimsy scrap of cloth. "Did you see me rag dolly back there? I think I pierced my ear on a tree branch."
RDS
n. abbreviation for Rapid Deceleration Syndrome. Military term for the very sudden illness that happens when the free-flight following a high-speed involuntary dismount is interrupted by something solid.
retro-grouch
n. a rider who prefers an old bike with old components and isn't fond of new, high-tech equipment.
rookie mark
n. chain grease on a rider's pant leg. "Give that guy extra points for his rookie mark. It's even on the wrong leg!" See chainring tattoo.
superman
n. a rider who flies over the handlebars and doesn't hit the ground for a long time. This may result in injury, but when it doesn't, it's really funny for everyone else.
swag
or schwag. n. the stuff that manufacturers and vendors donate to be given away at bike related events. When you race, go to bike shows, help put on events, write bike articles, you are often rewarded with swag.
tweak
1) n. a jump during which the rider twists the handlebars back and forth in mid-air, the more times the better. 2) v. to slightly injure a part of the body or the bike in a crash. "I tweaked my wrist when I fell." 3) v. to make a minor adjustment. "My brake pads were rubbing but I tweaked the cable and it went away."4) adj. when something isn't quite right, "You'd have to be seriously tweaked to replace those hydraulics with V-brakes."
Ugly Geek Jerseys
n. shirts worn by posers that are covered with advertising logos for which they are receiving no compensation.
unobtanium
adj. describing a bike or accessory made from expensive, high-tech material. A play on "unobtainable" and "titanium."
weight-weenie
n. a bike owner (not even necessarily a rider) who is more concerned with how many milligrams a certain component saves off the bike's total weight than with how to be a better rider.
wonky
adj. not functioning properly.
wrench
n. a bike mechanic, especially at a professional bike race in the US.

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Bike Fitting 101 by To Be Is to Tri

Today, my tri rant, is about bike fitting. I went and ordered my "extremely" small handlebars last week and ended up in what felt like a pissing match with the guy who originally fit me to my bike. I just went in to order my handlebar and he got upset because he was sure that the bar was too small. So he "measured" me and declared that my happy biomechanic coach was wrong. This prompts me to address the very serious issue of just exactly how DO you fit a bike. Because - and this is the important part - there is a misnomer that there is only ONE correct way to fit a bike.

Case in point. I waited 5 months to have someone re-check the fit of my bike because every time I described my injuries to people, they immediate responded with "you had your bike fitted, right?" and since I said yes, it was assumed, the fit MUST be correct and the problem was clearly something else.

Ummmmm......no! In the last two months I have become aware of three different methods of bike fittings (and I'm sure there are more). So in the hope of saving someone else the pain and suffering I have gone through over the last five months, I'd like to discuss each briefly (since I don't know of technical names for these methods I've given them my own):

Try It Method (aka Cheap-A** Method)
What it is: This method consists of throwing someone on their bike (you find a comfortable spot on the seat), dropping plumb bobs (this is done when your foot is in the 3 o'clock position to ensure that your knee is over or just behind the ball of your foot - which, if the cleats are aligned properly, means that your knee is even with or just behind the bold on your pedal), and measuring the angle of the knee when your foot is fully extended (this angle should be 30 degrees). Oh. And FYI, handlebar size is measured from the outside of your shoulder to the outside of the other shoulder.

Critique: This is probably enough for experienced bikers who have been riding consistently for a long time and have strong muscles and good flexibility. It hits the basics and makes sure there are no glaring problems. Unfortunately, if you're new to biking, it doesn't address any deficiencies you may have because you're new to the sport.

Flexibility Method (aka Ok...I buy this)
What it is: With this method, the fitter takes several measurements before letting you get anywhere near a bike. They take a hip flexor and hamstring flexibility measurement and then look at the curvature of your spine. THEN, they put you on a fitting bike (not your own bike) and play with the positions to ensure that you meet all the "Try It" measurements but are also within your flexibility range. They move you around until everything is comfortable and safe and then they use those measurements to set up your bike.

Critique: What? My capabilities matter in a bike fit? YES! And I like this method better than the "Try It" method because it keeps you from overworking any given muscle group that may or may not have the flexibility and strength to handle it.

Biomechanic Method (aka Somewhere between the Flexibility Method and heaven)
What it is: You stand next to you bike, explain any and all discomforts and problems you are experiencing with your bike. Given what you say, the biomechanic does necessary tests (ie. testing for dominance on one side, looking at your back, etc.) and then puts you on the bike. Immediately, he will comment on whether you know how to sit on a bike or not. Once you've mastered the correct sitting position, he will look at your pedal stroke, position on the seat, handlebar width and so on. If you're complaining about knee pain, he might drop a plumb bob to make sure your knee is back far enough and then move your seat back and down until you tell him the pain/pressure is gone. He uses whatever your current strength level is, to determine how high the handlebars should be instead of pushing you into a position you can't sustain with your current fitness level. After all of this he measures you for handlebars. But he doesn't take the measurement from the outside of your shoulders, he measures from the ball of your shoulder in the back and between your thumbs in the front (the important point here is that you stand in proper biking position - arms straight out in front of you, rhomoids (shoulderblades) squeezed together). He'll even test this out by having you use his hands as your hoods to see how it feels before telling you to order a specific size bar.

Critique: Clearly, I am a fan of this method. It's a little less scientific, I admit and traditional fitters have problems with it (as I found out last week), but it JUST MAKES SENSE! Use my current strength level to fit the bike and then as my strength improves, make adjustments. Use where my hands would naturally sit, to fit me to a handlebar instead of measuring parts of my arms that have nothing to do with my handlebar position. In my opinion, a combination of this method with the Flexibility Method is the optimal method.

As an aside, the one guy I heard talk about the Flexibility Method spoke heavily against the idea in triathlon that the tri position (78 degree seat angle) is meant to "save specific muscles for the run". He admitted that the tri position is about aerodynamics and not about "saving certain muscles" since in a pedal stroke you use hip flexor, quad, hamstring, and glutes regardless of how steep the angle is. Makes sense, although I do see that if you change the seat angle you rely more heavily on specific muscles than others. But as in the biomechanic method, make sure you have the appropriate strength in those muscles before you go setting your bike up for tri. If you don't, you'll end up in a world of hurt - literally.

All of this bike fitting talk makes me want to go get a degree in biomechanics!

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For Those About To Ride by Bolder in Boulder

Well sportsfans, today's post theme features the ONE TRUTH about triathlon in The Book of Bolder:


IT'S ALL ABOUT THE BIKE


I thought I'd catch you up on what's happening bike wise on my planet. I've been customizing the BMC TT02 from the raceAthlete sponsorship for my race season, and I'd like to share with you, and my team, what I've been up to. This bike will be my trusted steed for Ironman Wisconsin, and replaces my beloved Cervelo P3C that I rode in Ironman Florida.

There's a lot of interest in my opinion on what differences I saw between my Dura-Ace Cervelo P3C and my Dura-Ace BMC TTo2. I had a whole season on my P3C, so I wanted to wait until I had at least 500 miles on my TT02 -- I've got 636, so here's what I think!

The P3C is a more expensive frame, is all carbon, and is the choice of Team CSC in the Tour de France and numerous top triathletes. But, the TT02, is a less expensive carbon/aluminum hybrid, and was ridden by Team Phonak and now Team BMC and Team Astana. The TT02 was designed for professional racing, and it shows.

I had the exact same fit on both bikes by Tim Troha of Colorado Multisport. So, fit was not going to be the differentiator. Honestly, the differences are quite minor. The all carbon frame of the P3C gives it a one-piece feel, and when you are riding, you feel the stroke through the entire frame/cranks/wheels.

With the TT02, you lose that feel as you move from the rear to the front. Both are quite stiff in the lower crank area and you feel little torsional flex. Both offer only one cage holder, and the P3C's is positioned better than the TT02's which is much too low. One major nod to the TT02 is the micro-adjusts in the rear horizontal dropouts that allow you to position the rear wheel accurately in the middle of the frame.

My first race of the season is the Haystack TT. The race is a 13.6 mile time trial, and I've set up the bike to look like this.

There are five changes from the stock TT02 that I have customized for me (at my cost) and I list them in order of importance to me:

1) Rear cassette
2) Big chain ring
3) Valve extensions/tubes
4) Tires
5) Saddle


1) Rear cassette

The rear cassette that was shipped with the TT02 was a Dura-Ace 12-25. This was clearly a mistake, as there is not enough in the lower range to get the average age grouper up and over the hills of Wisconsin -- forget about life in Boulder.

The change I made was to a Dura-Ace 12-27. The crankset is a Zipp 300. This is a standard crankset, it is not compact. I've tested it out, and I believe it will do the job for me and my long and strong femurs, but, I'm not sure how it will work for the rest of the team. They may want to swap out to a compact crankset. My understanding is that Zipp has one in development. Leaving the 12-25 and the standard cranks, well, good luck with that in Wisconsin.

NOTE: In this picture, if you click on it, and look at the expanded view, you can see the micro-adjusts to the right of the horizontal drop-outs. You dial these in by rotating them to center your rear wheel in the frame. On the P3C you had to do this by gapping the hub skewer and the back of the horizontal drop-out, which over time would result in the skewer moving and the gap closing, and wheel or brake rub.

2) Big chain ring aka The Big Ring

As part of the Zipp 300 crankset, you get a 53-39 set of chain rings. On a rolling course, I found the 53 was causing me to spend most of my time on the descents in the 12 rear, and as I was missing my 54 chain ring for a little more ummph on the downhill stretches. You can see in the picture that the Dura-Ace 54 is thicker and beefier than the 300 and feels stiffer when you are climbing and applying maximum force. With the 54, I spend more time in the middle of the rear cassette, which results in better shifting, and I get a little more power on the descents when I felt I was missing it. It's like having an old friend return after a long absence.

3) Valve extensions/tubes

The Zipp valve extension solution for deep dish rims such as the Zipp 606 rear are sufficient if installed and maintained properly. You must use plumber's tape wrapped around the valve housing to ensure the seal to the extension does not leak air. When you are filling your tube with air, you must ensure the valve is not stuck, by inserting a thin allen wrench or wire down the extension to test the valve.

I swapped out the Zipp valve extensions for a solution from Tufo that allow you to physically extend the length of the valve stem in tire tubes that have a removable valve core. You simply remove the valve from the core, screw on the extension, and then screw the valve core into the end of the extension. In the Tufo solution, you actually have a valve end that you can open and close which will help me sleep at night -- especially on September 8th when my TT02 is sitting in a guarded terrace in transition without me.

4) Tires

The tires that came with the bike were Michelin Pro Race. I rode Vredestein Fortezza TriComp and loved them all of last year. I got a pinch flat on the Michelin's right away, which could have been the tire, or the tube/valve extension leaking, but I wasn't happy with their cornering and feel on high speed descents. Tim recommended Hutchinson Fusion Triathlon.

By the way, I forgot to mention, that Tim collaborated with me on these upgrades. By that I mean, I come in to Colorado Multisport and complain. He listens and gives me options. I argue against all his options for no apparent reason, and then choose whatever he has recommended.

5) Saddle

You got to choose your saddle at your own cost. And, I was pleased with my Selle Italia SLR T1 on my P3C, but, it went with the bike when sold, so I purchased a Selle Italia SLR T1 Kevlar.

I don't have very wide hips, so this saddle seems to work well for me.

But, comfort with a saddle depends a lot on what short you are riding as well. I tend to wear bib shorts for my long training rides. In races, I have in the past worn a one-piece Speedo trisuit for all distances from Sprint to Half-Ironman.

For Ironman, I wore a one-piece for the swim, changed into a one-piece cycling skinsuit for the ride, and a two piece Sugoi trisuit for the run. What am I Cher? For this season, my plans are to wear the team kit raceAthlete two-piece tri suit from 2XU for all my event from Sprint to Ironman. This will cut down on transition time, and porta-potty time. With this saddle, I think I will be comfortable, but not necessarily having a lot of fun at the longer distances, but, I think that's just the nature of the beast.

So, to finalize this post and review -- overflowing with bike porn shot by yours truly at a clandestine location known only to regulars of this blog as the HABC, I would definitely recommend the BMC TT02. I've found BMC to be a high quality manufacturer of bicycles, innovative, stylish -- you could say uber -- and definitely functional.

But, it's one thing to talk about your sponsorship bike, and it's another thing to do the reverse sponsorship. I paid for a bike fit yesterday with Tim, I've decided to buy this. So, there's my real recommendation on BMC bikes...

Bold Out!

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When to replace a chain by Wrenching with Winz

Its that time again. Time to dust off and shake up the 8 ball. Today I field a common question on chains. Remeber to keep those questions coming!

The Question. From Tri-dummy. My LBS says I should replace a chain every 1000 miles no matter what type of riding I do. Is this correct and is there anything else I need to change out.

The Answer: I personally hate the 1000 mile rule. 1k on a mountian bike is a lot different than 1k on a road bike which is different than 1k in the flats and 1k in the mountains. The best way to check if your chain needs to be replaced is to measure 12 links. They should be 12 inches. If they are 1/4 to 1/8 longer then its time to replace the chain. You can use a ruler or for the anal retensive (moi when it comes to bikes) Park Tool makes a great series of chain checkers. A dirty chain will speed up wear and tear. Remeber a clean bike is a happy bike and a fast bike.

You'll also want to consider replacing the cassette when you replace the chain and vice versa. Why? Casue I said so. Actually, its because as a chain wears, the teeth of your gears wear as well. Mating a fresh chain with a cassette thats been around the block with result in not only the redheaded bastardized stepchildren, but also in sloppy shifting becuase the chain isn't sitting properly on the teeth. You can switch out an entire cassette or your most used cogs.

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Tech Talk - Front Hub Overhaul by Wrenching with Winz

Its time for another edition of Tech Talk. In our special series on spring cleaning today’s topic is all about hub overhauls. We’ll concentrate on the front hub today and worry about freehubs and cassettes next week.

The first thing you need to do is remove the wheel from the bike and remove the tire and tube. Now remove the quick release skewer. There are two types of hubs that are found on tri bikes: cup and cone styles and cartridge bearing styles (more common on mountain bikes and ‘cross bikes). We’ll work on the cup and cone style here. A hub assembly consists of the axel, hub casing, cups, cones, locknuts, spacers (rear wheel) and bearings.

Using your cone wrenches – usually 15mm-17mm sizes, loosen the locknuts from the cones. Remove the cone and locknut from one side of the axel. Now place a rag or bowl under the axel. Lift the axel out from the wheel and note any bearings that try to run for freedom. The bowl or rag help stall their escape. Remove the other locknut and cone from the axel and place them to the side. Take a toothpick or a small magnet and remove the remaining bearings from the hub shell. Note how many are on each side (usually 10 balls for a front hub). Place the bearings in a dish or bowl.

Now its time to clean house. Use your degreaser to remove any grease, gunk and what not from all parts. With the ball bearings, placing them in a dish filled with a degreaser or WD-40 works well so you don’t lose any of them. Dry all parts.

Now take a ballpoint pen or a pencil and inspect the race and cone. Feel for any pitting or roughness. Cones can be replaces, cups/races usually cannot be and your looking at a new hub. While your at it check for any cracks alone the hub flange. Roll the axel along a flat table, if you see any gaps in the axel its bent and needs to be replaced. Make sure you get the proper diameter and length – bring the old axel to your LBS.

Now check the balls themselves. You want nice smooth round balls. If you see pitting or ovalized balls, replace them. It usually helps to replace all the balls at once. Stop complaining, their cheap. Usually you’ll need 20 balls at 3/16” for the front hub.

Take your grease, either red axel grease (auto shop), green park lube or your grease of choice and liberally coat the cup part of the axel. Holding the hub over a towel, pack the bearings into the cups. Use your finger or a toothpick to add yet more grease to the bearings to hold them in place. Now take the axel and thread on a cup and a locknut to the same distance that it was originally located, about 10 or so threads and place the axel into the hub watching for any bearings that try to escape.

Flip the hub over and thread the other cone and locknut. Now its time for adjustment. With QR skewers you’ll want a very slight amount of play in the hub because the closing of the QR will remove any excess play. Take and finger tighten the cones till they come into contact with the bearings. Now take a cone wrench and tighten about an 1/8 of a turn. Run the locknuts up to the cones and tighten. Test for play in the dropouts. Mount the wheel into the dropout and tighten the QR skewer as you normally would. Try to wiggle the rim If there is no play then all is good. If there is play then we need to tighten the bearings. Feel too rough? Then we need to loosen the adjustment. Heres a great shortcut. Remove the wheel. If you need to tighten the adjustment, use two cone wrenches on the locknuts and tighten them at the same time ever so slightly. For over tight adjustments, use cone wrenches on the cones and loosen ever so slightly. Keep testing until you feel a perfectly smooth bearing in the dropouts. Remount the tube and tire and mount the wheel to the bike. That’s it.

Get all your bike questions answered-- at Wrenching with Winz!

Tech Talk - Rear Derailluer Overhaul by Wrenching with Winz

Its time for another special edition of Tech Talk. In our series on spring maintenance, we’re going to discuss the overhauling and adjusting of the rear derailleur and cassette. We’ll cover cleaning the components, adjusting the shifting and where do have a lube job.

Depending if you have a Sram link or a chain breaker, you may want to remove the chain to make cleaning easier. Actually, I highly recommend doing so. Pop a rivet using the tool or separate the master link. While you’re at it go ahead and clean the chain. Take a 20 oz pop bottle out of the trash, or recycle bin for the eco friendly of us, and fill it with warm water and some Dawn. Take your chain and place it into the bottle, and be like James Bond. Grease Martini, shaken not stirred. The watch the women woo. Your milage may vary. Rinse the suds off the chain and air dry, repeat as necessary.

Remove the rear mech from the frame using an allen wrench. Take your degreaser and spray the crap out of the derailleur. Using the old toothbrush, scrub everything. Still noticing a bunch of crud on the pulleys? Take a flat head screwdriver, place the blade of the screwdriver against the side of the pulley and spin the pulley. Be amazed as a sting of grease, dirt, sand, road grime, Gu comes off the pulleys. Repeat for the other side and other pulley. Check the teeth of the pulleys, if they look worn down, replace them.

Check your pulley bolts, they should be tight…really tight. If their loose, place a dab of loctite on them and torque the suckers down.

Take the cassette off the hub. Soak the thing in degreaser and using the toothbrush, scrub the cogs, and where the cassette contacts the hub. Don’t forget to floss between the teeth. A screwdriver or the handle of a cassette brush works great for this. Dry and install onto the hub.

Now that’s the rear derailleur is clean, we can overhaul it if needed. Use a thin tipped screwdriver to pry off the C-clip on the back side of the derailleur mounting bolt. Make sure to keep some pressure on the plate, lest ye lose the clip into the shag carpet. Remove body-screw plate from derailleur body. Take care to remember the orientation of the parts. Note especially any seals and the direction of seal lips. Remove the lower cage from the derailleur body. Shimano use a screw under the body, called the P-screw. This screw holds a stud (like me) mounted to the pulley cage. To prevent early release of cage spring tension, hold derailleur cage firmly to derailleur body and remove this screw using an allen wrench.

Remove thespring and mark the direction of the coil ends. The smaller end tends to face toward the derailleur cage, and the larger end goes into the derailleur body. There is commonly a seal as well. Clean all parts, degrease and dry. Use a light layer of grease on pulley bushings and seals. Assemble pulleys into cage in the same orientation as they were disassembled. Remember to refer to your notes on orientation. Install and tighten pulley bolts to about 30 inch-pounds.

Coat the springs with a lions share of grease. Install the cage spring into derailleur body, with the smaller tapered end of spring facing outward toward cage. Be sure to engage spring into spring hole inside body. Place dust seal over derailleur body as it came off. Engage cage spring into derailleur cage and body. Again refer to notes from disassembly. Changing spring hole location will change tension. Attached the mech back to the frame.

Feed a new lightly greased cable from the shifter through preferable new housing and down through the cable clamp.

Place the chain on the big chainring and little sprocket. Pull slack out of the cable and tighten. Adjust the H screw (high) so that the pulley is inline with the small sprocket. Now shift to the little chainring and big cog. Repeat, but use the L screw. Once these are adjusted you should not have to touch them. Check your B screw near the pivot. If you notice any rubbing between the upper pulley and the largest cog, adjust the screw until the rubbing is gone. Shift from the big cog to the next cog, if there is hesitation, turn the barrel adjuster away from the wheel. Do the same with the small, big combination. If there is hesitation to move, add tension by turning the barrel towards the wheel. If a cog is over thrown, add or remove tension as needed.

That’s it! Next week we’ll cover the front derailleur then its on to hubs.

Get all your bike questions answered-- at Wrenching with Winz!